AMY YEN - A Simple Feast - The Jewels of New York

It was nice meeting the amiable Amy Yen, the author of a tempting new cookbook, "A Simple Feast." Just how simple the recipes are, depends on you, of course. To make root vegetable chips, "using a mandolin set to 1/8 inch, slice the vegetables into thin rounds. Place the vegetables in a colander and gently rinse them of excess starch, then thoroughly pat dry. Pour peanut oil into a medium saucepan to about 3 inches deep. Heat the oil over medium-high heat..."

So right there, this assumes you know what a mandolin is (at least, one you use in a kitchen), and that you regularly use a colander. In this age of "15 minute meals" and "quick and easy" recipes, this might be asking too much of some folks. Likewise, you're not a gourmet, or you're just don't have a lot of time, if "Roasted Tomato and Garlic Soup" means...you just open a can of tomato soup and toss in a clove of roasted and diced garlic. As opposed to heating the oven and using a baking sheet to roast the tomatoes with olive oil until carmelized, and getting out fresh basil leaves, freshly ground black pepper, diced onions, vegetable stock and unsalted better.

Which led me to ask Amy a question I asked Craig Claiborne years ago, when I did a cover story on him. Is it ok to substitute ingredients? Or is it an insult to the chef? Amy, like Craig, felt it was ok: "Yeah, I think you can swap out whatever you have in your pantry. A lot of the recipes are very simple. You can cross things out and work with what you have."

Sometimes Amy offers substitutes in the recipes. In making "Turkish Style Eggs with Yogurt" she champions powdered drupes (fruit of the sumac tree) but if you can't find the esoteric item "finely grated lemon can be substituted').

The book has a loose theme to it...New York and its seasons. A few pages describe apple-picking in upstate New York. A chapter is devoted to "rooftop barbecue" suggestions, another features "brown bag lunch" items, and there's a chapter for picnics in "Central Park." The set-ups aren't much. For "Central Park," Amy's one page preamble to recipes lets us know that the park is fun for "people watching, nibbling and reading." Yes, so I've heard. She dubiously finds pleasure in watching "rollerblading...moms and nannies in Spandex...the faint rhythm of a trumpet player playing a melody of Frank Sinatra..." If it's a good day, maybe you can avoid obnoxious noises, rude people, dogs off leashes, or a drug dealer who wandered away from "Strawberry Fields" to avoid a passing patrol of cops. New Yorkers are a savvy bunch, so I don't think we needed the line about "sandwiches are another wonderful addition to the menu that requires only a few components and some good packaging."

Fortunately the recipes are original and intriguing, and the preparation will keep you busy but not too harried and nothing takes too long. The ideas include: Roasted Turkey, Manchego and Fig and Onion Jam Sandwiches, Mini Pea, Mint and Feta Quiches, Seared Scallops and Chanterelle Pasta, Pomegranate Poached Figs,Arugula, Lentil and Butternut Squash Salad, and Double Grilled Cheese and Ham Sandwiches. The latter isn't as simple as it might seem. Asks Amy, "why not put the cheese in a grilled cheese on the outside of the bread?"

There are some familiar items here, but done in new ways. "Mac and Cheese" becomes a casserole that includes panko (Japanese breadcrumbs) for a crust, and the textures and tangs of of grated nutmeg, grated Gruyere, and parmesan (no cheddar here!)

Thought cherry cola was a simple enough drink? Amy's version involves zest of lemon, oranges, limes, nutmeg, a cinnamon stick, anis pod, lavender leaves, and ginger...among other things.

The book is pretty hefty on desserts: Gingered Rhubarb and Mascarpone Parfait, Mini Strawberry Cakes, Raspberry Eton Mess (yes, that's not a typo), cocktail ice pops and pecan pie with salted maple ice cream. This brought up another question...how is it that some exotic desserts have fallen completely out of favor, and aren't even in recipe books? Like...Nesselrode pie. Amy gave me a perplexed look. "What??" "It's a creme pie...with marrons, bits of dried fruit and flecks of dark chocolate...named after Count Nesselrode...and..." Never even heard of it? Oh well.

There are definitely items here you either haven't heard of, or didn't think were worth your time. Hominy? Lowly hominy? It's back for a few pages, via "Fried Hominy with chile and lime." Yes, all you need is a can of hominy to start you off. Add paprika, cumin, lime zest...you'll see. You'll taste. You'll like. 269 pages, pleasantly low on meat/chicken entrees, and with a good amount of fish and veggies, the book is themed for New York (apples figure into a lot of Fall recipes, for example). It should be on the shelf of kitchens all over the country...and around the world. The hardcover is from Roost Books, a division of Shambhala.